Advantages
- Forms a loop very quickly
- Its shape minimizes the risk of jamming
- Tied with two ropes side by side, it can be used as a joining knot, known as an “overhand bend” (or EDK)
Drawbacks
In its “overhand bend” version, it can slip on itself: make sure to leave enough length on the two tails coming out of the knot.
Uses
- Joining two ropes together
- Forming a loop to clip into
Pair it with the other essential knots: the figure-eight knot and its variants. For putting it into practice on a descent, see our articles on the foolproof descender position and on how to stop safely on a figure-eight.
Further resources
Sheets from the Canyon Training Centre (Centre de Formation Canyon):
- Slide sheet
- Video sheet
